Busting a nut trying to unscrew forend nut, help!

[dailomkm]

Man vs screw. Screw wins today. Help me defeat the screw! In all seriousness, trying to install the magpul forend, I used the castle nut screwdriver (pegs as turning handles) supplied as just made my hands sore and red. I tried applying some WD40. Didn't work. I tapped on the peg with a hammer to see if that would loosen it after the WD40. Ended up breaking one of the pegs. Bought an ATI mag socket which has much more grip and leverage but still nothing. Took the gun apart and still nothing. I'm at a loss. I've read other owners have the same problem and they all managed to overcome the nut but it's driving me nuts! Any help for the nut? I don't want to have to take it to a gunsmith and that would be last resort.
It's a brand new tactical express.

[Synchronizor]

Not very clear to me whether or not you did this, but first thing, take your fore-end tube assembly off your gun. Trying to loosen or tighten the fore-end tube nut while the assembly is still on the receiver is just asking for twisted action bars.

After that, apply some penetrating oil to the threads and let it sit & soak in for a while. WD-40 is not a penetrating oil, it is a water dispersant and a light-duty temporary lubricant. There are several options out there, but I prefer PB Blaster for stubborn threaded connections. It's easy to find at auto parts stores, but I don't recommend using it indoors - especially if you're married.

Once the penetrant has had time to soak in, clamp or hold the fore-end firmly, and apply torque to the nut using your tool. It may take some force, but the nut should come free.

[dailomkm]

@synchronizer, thanks for your reply! At first I had the fore end tube assembly still hooked to the receiver, wouldn't budge so I took it off and still no luck. I ordered some kroil, guess that's the same as what you suggested.
How do you recommend I apply it to the nut threads?

[Synchronizor]

Just stand the fore-end assembly up, and apply the penetrant around the joint where the fore-end tube threads meet the fore-end tube nut. If you bought the aerosol can, use the little straw that comes with it. If not, use an eyedropper or a cheap pipette. I've never used Kroil, but if it's like other penetrating oil products, it should seep between the two parts and help free them up.

[dailomkm]

@synchronizer, appreciate the help. Will apply and see how it goes. Hopefully the next post will be a pic instead of "do you have any other suggestions?"

[Banshee]

A little heat on the nut sometimes will help.

[dailomkm]

So I tried Kroil to loosen up the bolt, and tried to heat it up previously but this nut is not giving at all. Upon closer inspection of the inner tube, it looks like its a single piece, there are no seams where it looks like the nut joins to the pipe. This is my model:
http://www.remington.com/shotguns/pump- ... al-7-round
Can the forend be removed and changed on this model?

[dailomkm]

@synchronizor @banshee thanks for your suggestions. Kroil did not work and I put an ample amount and let it soak. This leads me to believe that nut is cross threaded, welded or glued on. I may have bent the rods trying to get it off so to protect my now raw and kroil smelling hands, just ordered a new forend tube assembly and nut. Beaten by metal!

[Synchronizor]

Remington doesn't glue or weld fore-end tube nuts. Cross-threading is a possibility.

In any case, if you really twisted your action bars, it probably is best to replace them. Minor bends can be fixed if you know what you're doing, but if it's too extreme, the steel can stretch or work-harden, and it takes way more work than it's worth to get them back to factory specs.

[timsmcm]

I would really like to see how this goes. I have a socket that has the same od size as the forend nut. I have pounded on that to try to loosen my frozen nut to no avail. Heated with small torch, lots of kroil, put it in the freezer, won't budge. Have a beautiful piece of walnut on it that I don't want to destroy.