Does anyone have a recommended practice for refinishing old Remington factory synthetic stocks?
I have a couple of these that were once MOBU and several seasons in duck blinds have degraded their original finish. The original plastic underneath the Hydro dipped transfer is something near dark earth on one and tan on the other one. I am considering refinishing these in just black. Has anyone tried this and can suggest a process that works?
I wonder about the following potential issues:
1. Will cleaning the stocks with acetone be sufficient to get a spray paint re-coat to stick?
2. Should the spray paint be "plastic formulation" so that it adheres to the stocks? Will that require a light (400 grit) sanding to adhere or will scotch bright scuff-up be sufficient?
3. Guys around here are quoting $150/set to Cerakote a stock set, and I realize that they will be doing the prep work, but I wonder if I can get an acceptable result without laying out for the professional job.
Refinishing Remington Synthetic Stocks
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Re: Refinishing Remington Synthetic Stocks
Hello,
1. Cleaning with acetone will help degrease the surface but may not fully strip the existing finish. Light sanding with 400-600 grit sandpaper will provide the best surface for paint/finish to adhere to.
2. Use a spray paint specifically formulated for plastics. Krylon Fusion and Rustoleum are good options. Lightly scuffing the surface with a Scotch-brite pad should be sufficient for these to adhere well without full sanding.
1. Cleaning with acetone will help degrease the surface but may not fully strip the existing finish. Light sanding with 400-600 grit sandpaper will provide the best surface for paint/finish to adhere to.
2. Use a spray paint specifically formulated for plastics. Krylon Fusion and Rustoleum are good options. Lightly scuffing the surface with a Scotch-brite pad should be sufficient for these to adhere well without full sanding.
Re: Refinishing Remington Synthetic Stocks
If you're planning on stripping the whole gun you can sand blast it with some fine sand. I've done it a few times. You can recoat with Duracoat and an air brush if you plan on doing a hydro dip which really isn't that hard or the air dry ceracoat that doesn't have to go in an oven to cure but that is a lot more tricky to hydro dip.
The hardest part is putting your gun in a sand blaster.
I disassemble mine and I don't do the trigger group, but you could. Just doing the stocks shouldn't be that big a deal. Blast it, clean it and spray it.
I'd stay away from spray paint, I've been down that road a couple times and it just doesn't last.
The Duracoat has lasted very well on mine, I went with white and did a snow camo hydro dip with matte ceracoat clear over the top and it's amazing how well it holds up.
I did my 10ga BPS with tan ceracoat and it was a fight to hydro dip. If the ceracoat is cured the hydro dip doesn't stick well. You have to dip it when it's ok to touch but before it cures so it will stick. Took me a couple tries but I finally got it and did a matte creacoat clear over the top.
The hardest part is putting your gun in a sand blaster.
I disassemble mine and I don't do the trigger group, but you could. Just doing the stocks shouldn't be that big a deal. Blast it, clean it and spray it.
I'd stay away from spray paint, I've been down that road a couple times and it just doesn't last.
The Duracoat has lasted very well on mine, I went with white and did a snow camo hydro dip with matte ceracoat clear over the top and it's amazing how well it holds up.
I did my 10ga BPS with tan ceracoat and it was a fight to hydro dip. If the ceracoat is cured the hydro dip doesn't stick well. You have to dip it when it's ok to touch but before it cures so it will stick. Took me a couple tries but I finally got it and did a matte creacoat clear over the top.