Right Path?

[cjjohn]

I just bought my first 870. After a LOT of reading I wanted a 870 Police trade in. I looked for a couple of weeks with no luck. Friday my LGS had an 870 Wingmaster for 200, so I grabbed it. My use for the gun will be primarily home defense, and I plan on running a class or two with it. Here are my plans as far as upgrades, please let me know if I am on the right track.
Carrier latch spring (870 P / 1100)
Sear spring (870P)
Wilson Combat +2 mag extension
870 wood fore end
non mim extractor, new spring and plunger as well. Not worried about fitting.
New firing pin
I will cut barrel to 18.5" ish, drill and tap for new bead and use the epoxy on XS big dot sight I think.

I am not completely opposed to the poly trigger plate after a lot of reading. Also, no black furniture for this one. I plan on a simple paint / park for all the metal and cleaning / re-finishing the wood. I've had Saiga 12's AKs and ARs, I like the wood and metal look, and I want to keep this one simple. May add a light AT MOST.

Please offer your thoughts. I know there is a LOT more experience here with the 870 platform. Thanks for the input.

[Synchronizor]

First off, how old is this Wingmaster? If you don't know the date, what's the letter or letters at the beginning of the serial number?

Carrier latch spring (870 P / 1100)

870s don't have carrier latch springs, they have carrier dog follower springs. 1100s have both a carrier latch spring (which does something unique to semi-autos) and a carrier dog follower spring (which does the same thing the 870's does). The standard carrier dog follower spring is used in both the 870 and the 1100. The mod you're referring to involves taking the carrier latch spring from an 1100, and using it as an extra-heavy carrier dog follower spring in an 870. This has some minor advantages, but also some disadvantages compared to just using a standard 870 part. Both should work 100% reliably for a HD gun, and the gun will run smoother with the standard part, but it's not a real big deal. Go with whatever makes you feel better.

Sear spring (870P)

Police sear springs aren't better parts, they're stiffer in order to increase the trigger pull weight. If you want an extra-heavy trigger, fine, but otherwise, there's no advantage to it.

Wilson Combat +2 mag extension

These are very good extensions for the money. For a HD gun, I would suggest either the version with no sling stud, or the version with a vertical QD sling stud. The former would probably be best for HD, as sling plates can provide a handhold for someone trying to grab and control your gun from the muzzle end.

Also, if you're going to use the included follower, snap the little center post out of the end that contacts the shells. This is usually very weakly attached, and you don't want it coming off inside the gun.

non mim extractor, new spring and plunger as well. Not worried about fitting.

MIM extractors work fine. If the gun runs reliably, I would leave it, personally. Changing the spring can't hurt, especially if it's an older gun. While you have the spring and plunger out, clean any grease or grit out of the channel.

New firing pin

Check out the firing pin. As long as it's within spec for protrusion, and it has a new-style head (flat, not rounded), it should be perfectly serviceable. While you're doing that, also look to see whether the firing pin retractor spring has a constant turn rate, or if the coils in the center are tighter than those at the end. If it's a constant-rate spring, it's an old-style spring, and it would probably be worth updating it to the newer version.

I will cut barrel to 18.5" ish, drill and tap for new bead and use the epoxy on XS big dot sight I think.

Aren't the glue-on XS dots designed to fit over a bead on a pedestal rather than a plain bead? In any case, I'm not sure why you'd drill and tap the barrel to install a bead that you'll then immediately cover up. Seems like you could skip installing the bead, and just make sure the glue-on sight is centered.

I am not completely opposed to the poly trigger plate after a lot of reading.

I prefer the polymer trigger plates myself, but I thought Wingmasters used the old-school powdered aluminum trigger plates, not polymer. If yours is plastic, you might have a mix & matched 870. That's not necessarily a bad thing, 870's are designed to be fully interchangeable that way, but it does mean you should check out the rest of the parts to make sure everything's up-to-date and in proper working condition.

[cjjohn]

First off, how old is this Wingmaster? If you don't know the date, what's the letter or letters at the beginning of the serial number?
I believe it is a 1992 from what I can find.



870s don't have carrier latch springs, they have carrier dog follower springs. 1100s have both a carrier latch spring (which does something unique to semi-autos) and a carrier dog follower spring (which does the same thing the 870's does). The standard carrier dog follower spring is used in both the 870 and the 1100. The mod you're referring to involves taking the carrier latch spring from an 1100, and using it as an extra-heavy carrier dog follower spring in an 870. This has some minor advantages, but also some disadvantages compared to just using a standard 870 part. Both should work 100% reliably for a HD gun, and the gun will run smoother with the standard part, but it's not a real big deal. Go with whatever makes you feel better.

I was tired when i posted, but yes, you are right, I used the wrong term. I figured I'm taking it apart anyway, so spending a few dollars on small parts can't hurt

Police sear springs aren't better parts, they're stiffer in order to increase the trigger pull weight. If you want an extra-heavy trigger, fine, but otherwise, there's no advantage to it.

My wife may be in a position to handle this from time to time, so for defense I like the heavier trigger pull. I feel like a accidental discharge may be less likely.


These are very good extensions for the money. For a HD gun, I would suggest either the version with no sling stud, or the version with a vertical QD sling stud. The former would probably be best for HD, as sling plates can provide a handhold for someone trying to grab and control your gun from the muzzle end.

Also, if you're going to use the included follower, snap the little center post out of the end that contacts the shells. This is usually very weakly attached, and you don't want it coming off inside the gun.

Good points! Exactly the kind of info I'm looking for.



MIM extractors work fine. If the gun runs reliably, I would leave it, personally. Changing the spring can't hurt, especially if it's an older gun. While you have the spring and plunger out, clean any grease or grit out of the channel.

My thoughts exactly. And I will keep the old parts around just in case.



Check out the firing pin. As long as it's within spec for protrusion, and it has a new-style head (flat, not rounded), it should be perfectly serviceable. While you're doing that, also look to see whether the firing pin retractor spring has a constant turn rate, or if the coils in the center are tighter than those at the end. If it's a constant-rate spring, it's an old-style spring, and it would probably be worth updating it to the newer version.

Good points, thank you.

Aren't the glue-on XS dots designed to fit over a bead on a pedestal rather than a plain bead? In any case, I'm not sure why you'd drill and tap the barrel to install a bead that you'll then immediately cover up. Seems like you could skip installing the bead, and just make sure the glue-on sight is centered.

I'm not 100% sold on the glue on beads. Granted I have never has one, so I may go that route and see how it holds up. None of my guns are safe queens. I plan on running the snot out of this gun. I have 500 rounds set aside for the first range trip. Will my shoulder handle that many?? Maybe, but more importantly will a glue on sight?


I prefer the polymer trigger plates myself, but I thought Wingmasters used the old-school powdered aluminum trigger plates, not polymer. If yours is plastic, you might have a mix & matched 870. That's not necessarily a bad thing, 870's are designed to be fully interchangeable that way, but it does mean you should check out the rest of the parts to make sure everything's up-to-date and in proper working condition.

You know, I said Wingmaster, but I actually think it's an express. I don't have a lot of experience with Remingtons. I will confirm when I pick it up from dealer. I hate the 10 day wait........ Great info! Thank you, I appreciate your help!!

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[Synchronizor]

I have 500 rounds set aside for the first range trip. Will my shoulder handle that many?? Maybe, but more importantly will a glue on sight?

Might want to add an upgraded recoil pad to your list, if your gun just has one of the basic rubber factory units.

As for epoxy, that stuff can have some real holding power. I've used it for several things, including automotive projects. So long as you take the proper prep steps, I'd think it should hold a little front sight on just fine under recoil

You know, I said Wingmaster, but I actually think it's an express. I don't have a lot of experience with Remingtons. I will confirm when I pick it up from dealer. I hate the 10 day wait........ Great info! Thank you, I appreciate your help!!

Ooh, that's right. California.

Well, when you do get it, we can help you figure out exactly what you have. An 870's an 870, and any of them make very good HD guns so long as things are in proper working order, so I wouldn't sweat it too much.

[cjjohn]

Thanks for the help Synchronizor.
I pick it up a week from today so I'll let you know. And I agree, it seems it really doesn't matter which one it is. I actually like the Express furniture a little better from what I can tell. Simpler. Exactly what I want with this one.

[cjjohn]

I picked up my Express yesterday, got it home and immediately disassembled it. It is a newer model express it seems, it has the dimples in the magazine. No worries as far as I'm concerned, I am just going to drill them out and make sure the tube is polished smooth. The rest of the gun appears to be ok. It has/ had light surface rust on the receiver which is already off. I have a police model walnut fore end and planned on putting it on, but I am either going to have to stain the stock to match, find a matching walnut stock, or cut the Express fore end. I want the shorter fore end.
Also, the right shell latch fell out last night, so...I'm on Brownells ordering BOTH latches and a staking tool.

I guess I should probably order the ejector and tool while I'm at it I guess. While frustrating, I am basically going to have a new shotgun. I could have bought new off the shelf and been about the same for an Express model, but I am trying to upgrade while doing this, so I believe mine will be a better gun. Plus I have the enjoyment of refurbishing something as well as the learning experience.

Thoughts???????????

[Synchronizor]

I have a police model walnut fore end and planned on putting it on, but I am either going to have to stain the stock to match, find a matching walnut stock, or cut the Express fore end. I want the shorter fore end.

All viable options, but why do you want a short fore-end specifically? They're on Police guns mainly so that they don't interfere with cruiser gun racks. If that's not a concern for you, a long fore-end has some advantages - more room to hold onto, less chance of a short-stroke because your hand slipped, better protection of the magazine tube, and so on.

Also, the right shell latch fell out last night, so...I'm on Brownells ordering BOTH latches and a staking tool.

Why new shell latches? It sounds like you just had some staking come loose. As long as they're the updated shell latches (which I'm pretty sure they would be if your gun's an Express), you should be good to just re-stake it and be done.

I guess I should probably order the ejector and tool while I'm at it I guess.

What's wrong with the ejector?

[cjjohn]

All viable options, but why do you want a short fore-end specifically? They're on Police guns mainly so that they don't interfere with cruiser gun racks. If that's not a concern for you, a long fore-end has some advantages - more room to hold onto, less chance of a short-stroke because your hand slipped, better protection of the magazine tube, and so on.

I want the ability to reload with the fore end in any position, also I plan on having this gun in my Jeep a lot of time in a rack. And lastly I guess I just like it better.

Why new shell latches? It sounds like you just had some staking come loose. As long as they're the updated shell latches (which I'm pretty sure they would be if your gun's an Express), you should be good to just re-stake it and be done.

Hmmm, another lesson learned. I didn't realize there was a difference, figured it was a relatively cheap fix so why not do it while I have it all apart. The same thing applies to the ejector. I may keep the new parts stored for future use and see if it all works as should. If not I can replace what needs done.

I also tend to over do things when I have them apart, especially if parts appear to be "affordable". The problem with that is at some point it becomes a matter of "could have bought a new one" for the same or less. All those "affordable" parts add up real fast in a spreadsheet.

Again, great info from you, and I appreciate it, as well as this forum!

[cjjohn]

The outcome.

[Synchronizor]

I like it. Simple, straightforward, and functional. Wood always seemed like a underutilized choice for a HD shotgun, it's durable, tough, and solid enough to deliver some hurt at close quarters. The hollow molded plastic furniture on most Express Tactical models shoot and carry perfectly fine, but there's no way they'd have the clout of real wood.